![]() Bethany Hamilton, the professional who lost an arm to a tiger shark when she was 13, looks to her faith in God to compete on the same level as pros with two arms (which she does mind-bendingly well). Surf-related yoga and meditation retreats are common, too, led by the likes of the Pipeline master Gerry Lopez. Though Calvinist missionaries outlawed surfing when they first came to Hawai’i in the 1820s-they viewed it as frivolous and wanton-the last 50 years have seen single-fin riding rabbis, short boarding priests, and bodysurfing Buddhist monks. But surf culture is full of people who have made their daily plunge a spiritual practice. The 50 Best Podcasts of 2021 Laura Jane Standley and Eric McQuade ![]()
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